McCluskie Ganj: A township in Jharkhand where places of worship are juxtaposed

Story by  ATV | Posted by  Aasha Khosa | Date 04-01-2024
An aerial view of the Sarv Dharmasthal at McCluskie Ganj
An aerial view of the Sarv Dharmasthal at McCluskie Ganj

 

Seraj Anwar/Patna

If India’s soul lives in one place it has to be at McCluskie Ganj, a small Jharkhand township that has the places of worship of Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and Christians - viz a temple, dargah, church, and Gurudara - in a single complex. These British-era structures have never been renovated.

The complex is located in the village of Dulmi in McCluskie Ganj, 60 kilometers from the capital Ranchi. The place has a profound impact on the minds of the visitors; some bow, some kneel, and others read Fatiha here.

The historic place has no caretaker but Shravan Yadav, a local villager has been performing the role for years. He cleans all the places of worship and takes care of their maintenance. 

People from Jharkhand, Bihar, and Bengal visit this beautiful place and they feel they feel solace in their minds. 

Church, Mandir and Dargah at McCluskie Ganj

 

This is perhaps the only place of all religions - Sarv Dharmasthal - in the country with no land or other dispute 

McCluskie Ganj is often called 'Mini London' as once upon a time it had an overwhelming population of Anglo-Indians. Some members of the community continue to live there. 

The town of McCluskie Ganj located amidst the forests of Jharkhand was established by an Anglo-Indian businessman named Ernest Timothy McCluskey. He leased land from Ratu Maharaj in 1930 to build this township. Today this tourist destnation is spread over 10,000 acres.

There are more than 300 beautiful bungalows once built for Christians. The settles followed the Western culture, lifestyle and language and therefore it came to be known as Mini London. 

McCluskie Ganj Railway station

It’s said that when Timothy McCluskey came to this place for the first time, he fell in love with its natural scenery and climate and decided to settle Anglo-Indian families there.

The report of the Simon Commission in 1930 had no mention of the Anglo-Indians and that way the coimmunity felt betrayed and abandoned by the British government.

This worried Timothy McCluskey and he decided to make arrangements for his people to live in India. It resulted in the establishment of McCluskieganj township.

During this period, many wealthy Anglo-Indian families living in Kolkata and other metropolitan cities camped in McCluskieganj, bought land, and built many attractive bungalows, churches, temples, and mosques and started living here. 

One of the Bungalows at McCluskie Ganj

Soon this lush green piece of land was transformed into a beautiful city.

McCluskey had invited about 2 lakh Anglo Indians to settle there but finally, only 300 families came. Today only 20 families live here.

Most of the families have moved to America, Australia, and other countries of Europe. There was a time when the vacant bungalows gave the township the look of a ghost town. However, soon families with young children started populating the city, and many schools were opened.

Roads were built and shops selling essential goods came up. Even though the population of this city declined, the township emerged as a tourist destination.  Most of the bungalows have been converted into guest houses for tourists. Here the all-religion complex attracts tourists from neighbouring states.

The Church at McCluskie Ganj

McCluskey's Irish father worked in the railways in India. He fell in love with a girl from a Brahmin family of Banaras. Despite opposition from society, they got married.

McCluskey wanted to do something for his community. Therefore, he laid the foundation of his dream city in the 1930s.

Situated amidst the dense forests of Jharkhand and tribal villages like Chama, Ramdagado, Kedal, Duli, Konka, Mayapur, Mahulia, Hesal, and Lapra, McCluskieganj is still a reminder of the British era.

The old bungalow of an Anglo-Indian family in McCluskieganj has been converted into an inter-college. The Anglo-Indian families who remained here after independence have again started populating McCluskieganj.

In the all-religion complex is the tomb of Noor Hasan Baba. Even today, people from far-off places visit it and place a chadar at his tomb. 

During the British rule, Noor Hasan Baba came to Kolkata from Delhi. The British called him from Ranchi to Dulli (near McCluskieganj). Noor Hasan Baba used to stay here and do his meditation. 

Ernest Timothy McCluskey

He was also fond of singing Qawwali and the British were influenced by him. Noor Hasan Baba went to Kolkata for a few days, where he died. His sons brought his mortal remains to Dulli for burial.

The British built a mausoleum on his grave. Also, as per his wish, a Radha Krishna temple and a semi-built Gurudwara was built. Meanwhile, India became independent, due to which the British could not build churches.

There is a wooden cross installed at that place. In this way, the British built multi-religious places of four religions.

A pond next to the Sarva Dharmasthal is believed to have been frequented by Sita during the exile of her husband Ram and brother-in-law Laxman and it is named Sitakund. Locals recall the existence of many icons of the three which have been erased over the years.

A big British bungalow, which was once used by the Britishers who came to construct the Sarv Dharmasthal is located close to Sitakund. It is in a dilapidated condition. It has 16 rooms of which 2 also have fireplaces but remain mostly deserted.

Each year, on 22 November, Noorhasan Baba's Urs is celebrated, and Urs is celebrated. On that day his descendants come from Kolkata and offer prayers at his mausoleum. People believe that praying at Baba's tomb will grant them their wishes.

Every day many devotees visit the Radha-Krishna temple where the Janmashtami is celebrated in a grandiose way. 

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At the time of Christmas, people of the Christian community come here and offer flowers and light candles at the site of the cross.